In this fascinating interview, Roel Mulder, a renowned beer historian specializing in Dutch and Belgian beers, delves into the true history of Lambic beer, debunking many myths and romanticized notions surrounding it. Lambic beers, known for their spontaneous fermentation process, have been a staple of Brussels' beer culture, but their history is often misunderstood.
Mulder explains that Lambic, as we know it today, didn't originate in the Middle Ages but developed around the late 18th century. The first mentions of Lambic or "alambic" beer, named after the distillation apparatus due to its clarity and high alcohol content, date back to the 1780s. Initially, it was a high-alcohol, clear, and yellow beer that resembled gin in some ways, which made it unique compared to other beers of that time.
Historically, the spontaneous fermentation technique used in Lambic brewing was not exclusive to it. Before the widespread understanding and cultivation of yeast, many beers, including those from Brussels and even the white beer from Hoegaarden, underwent spontaneous fermentation. This method was later perfected in Brussels to produce a beer with specific characteristics: high alcohol content, clarity, and good preservation qualities.
Today's Lambic beers, such as Geuze, Faro, and Kriek, are derived from this base beer through blending and the addition of ingredients like sour cherries. The blending process, which combines Lambics of different ages and sometimes different barrels, is an art that has evolved over centuries. Mulder highlights that while modern Lambic brewing retains these traditional methods, the beer itself and its production have adapted over time.
The interview also touches on the efforts made in the 1970s to preserve and promote Lambic beer, as it was becoming less popular compared to modern lagers like Stella Artois and Jupiler. Enthusiasts and historians began to explore and document Lambic's history, sometimes projecting modern characteristics onto its past. Mulder emphasizes the importance of understanding Lambic within the broader context of beer history, noting that many of its "unique" traits were once common in various beer styles.
Mulder's extensive research and insights provide a clearer, more accurate picture of Lambic's origins and evolution, offering viewers a deeper appreciation for this iconic Belgian beer and its place in the world of brewing.